【双语】“我就是觉得我,很丑”

浏览量:263    发布时间:2020-11-03

“魔镜魔镜告诉我,谁是世界上最难看的女孩?”


“不用你说,我知道是我。”

由赵薇担任发起人的国内首档女性独白剧《听见她说》以不同女性为第一视角,将当代中国女性的生存痛点赤裸裸地展露在观众面前。

其中,以“容貌焦虑”为主题的第一集《魔镜》,像是一枚投进中国女性内心的炸弹,让她们开始更深刻地审视自己——
在这个不可避免被“看脸”的时代,我“容貌焦虑”了吗?

"A man is in charge of making money, a woman is in charge of being pretty." Though gender equality dominates mainstream conversation, this maxim still shapes our societal values and reinforces gender roles in all aspects of our lives.

Unsurprisingly, in societies such as China and greater East Asia where the competition to be the best and look the most beautiful is fierce, looking pretty and keeping fit is the feminine ideal. For young women in urban China, body image is a topic that's often discussed, yet not nearly enough.



01

 A charming curse 




《魔镜》是一集只有二十几分钟的短片,故事的开头很简单:
演员齐溪饰演的女孩Yoyo是一名“重度容貌焦虑”患者,平均每天花在照镜子上的时间达到2小时37分钟。如往常一样,这天她浓妆艳抹,在家里一顿自拍和修图,发了朋友圈并收获了众人的点赞。然后,她有些空虚地来到镜子前卸妆。她一边卸妆一边回忆起整容前遇到的一位温暖的医生。那位医生告诉她,她不需要整容,一切都刚刚好。但她哭了起来,说——

“我就是觉得我,很丑。”

图片

《魔镜》播出后,立刻掀起全网对容貌焦虑、身材焦虑等话题的探讨。

对当代年轻人来说,容貌焦虑是个也许不会常常被提及,但一旦讨论起来便会让每个人都产生共鸣的话题。

微博上,许多网友表示,“活在每一天的容貌焦虑中”是一种常态:



也有一些网友,在焦虑中逐渐学会接纳自己的不完美,与自己和解:



还有更多人,一边在似乎永远不会消除的容貌焦虑中挣扎,一边试图跳出这个怪圈,努力让自己变得优秀和自信:




近日,一则名为#近六成受访大学生有容貌焦虑#的微博话题登上热搜,让更多人开始思考何为容貌焦虑、身材焦虑,以及这样的焦虑从何而来。



在中国高校传媒联盟(由中国青年报及国内63所重点高校组成)发起的一项关于大学生容貌焦虑的调查中,60%的受访大学生表示有一定程度的容貌焦虑。

调查数据显示,只有极少数人表示对自己的容貌“非常满意”——12.77%的男生和6.08%的女生。


容貌焦虑从何而来?

尽管从小被教育“外表不重要,重要的是内在”,但现实往往就是残酷的——
“有趣的灵魂和好看的皮囊,你最好都要有。”

Multiple studies reveal that many adolescents and young women develop anxiety over their appearance largely because of increasing insecurity in how they look. A recent poll by xiaomei.com, a media association of the country's universities, reveals that nearly 60 percent of respondents have body image anxiety and that fewer female students (6.08 percent) are "very satisfied" with their appearance than males (12.77 percent).

According to The Psychology of Appearance, women aged 17 through 85 all maintain a high level of dissatisfaction with their body images, especially those aged between 18 and 30, 69 percent of whom experience anxiety regarding their overall appearances. Comparatively, only 56 percent of men between 18 and 21 are concerned with their appearances, and that proportion drops by half when they reach the age of 50.

The country's fast-paced economic development in recent decades has changed how people view themselves. Females are more susceptible to what others think of them, first of all, in regards to their appearance. Many of them have become increasingly obsessive about their body – how pretty they look, how much they weigh. Celebrities and normal people alike can't escape aspiring toward "paper-thin waists" or "chopstick legs."

For a time, toxic criteria of slimness made their rounds on social media, such as millions of netizens sharing photos of eggs being delicately perched on their pronounced collarbones. These bizarre internet trends have further contributed to the social anxiety of young women who fear judgment or strive for perfectionism. And there are the myriad beauty "gurus" who link slimness to self-discipline, and beauty to power.





02

 Who defines beauty? 
 And for whom? 



小时候,班里最漂亮的女生身边总有一堆人围着,每天都会收到不知是谁送来的早餐和各种零食。

长大了,进入社会,漂亮的女生似乎也总能在职场上游刃有余,在人际上享受更多优势。

后来,主流审美逐渐被三个字高度概括——“白幼瘦”,它一夜之间成了美女的代名词。

去年夏天,网络上流传着一张极为苛刻的“BM女孩身高体重表”:



“BM女孩”的说法,源自欧洲的一个少女服饰品牌——布兰迪·梅尔维尔(Brandy Melville,简称BM)。



BM实行“One Size Fits Most”(适合大多数的均码)策略,但其产品的实际尺寸相当于XS或S码,比如裤子的腰围通常在25英寸(1尺9或64厘米)左右。

BM进军美国后,以所向披靡之势引领加州时尚风潮,许多年轻美国女孩以能够穿进BM的衣服为炫耀资本。



无论在东方还是西方,女性对于外表的追求似乎都没有终点。

一个人的外表并非不重要,恰恰相反,很多时候干净整洁的外表是绝对的加分项。

但外表重要,并不等于应该追求单一的审美取向。

在诸如“白幼瘦”等社会塑造的审美标准下,许多女性活在美颜与P图软件的世界中,活在“必须漂亮”的魔咒中。

而当这种单一的审美成为外界对女性“自律”与否的判断标准时,“美”也成为了一个具象的、有限的、狭隘的形容词,成了一道厚重的枷锁。

"To lose confidence in one's body is to lose confidence in oneself," said French writer and intellectual Simone de Beauvoir. This quote by an icon in philosophical feminism from the last century still has relevance today.

From the well-known saying "slim down, flaws gone" to the thunderclap FSY – "Fair, Skinny, Youthful"– a singular set of golden standards is applied across East Asia telling women what they need to look like to be considered good-looking. Pressured by this unitary, parochial approach to beauty, strict appearance management has become a so-defined "healthy" lifestyle.

26岁的然妮(化名)不是现代意义上的美女。戏剧专业出身的她,曾有过无数次失败的试镜经历。

回忆起在北京电影学院读书时的一次试镜经历,她平静又无奈——
“那些女生都很漂亮,还是大高个儿,又瘦,超级瘦,没有人跟我一样。我觉得很自卑,那一刻我真的觉得很自卑。”

那时的她,身高1米67,体重108斤左右,远低于她的身高所要求的标准体重。

后来,临近毕业,在各种压力下她一度瘦到97斤,却在瘦下来后意外获得2个角色——这也是她20多场试镜中得到的仅有的2个角色。

For 26-year-old Rani Wei, the experience hits close to home. The former actress said in most of the auditions she had attended, she was discriminated against because she was "overweight" and "not that beautiful" by filmmaking standards.

"All other girls there look pretty, tall, skinny, super skinny. Nobody looks like me. At that moment, I felt bad, really bad," she told CGTN in recounting a film audition during her college years at the Beijing Film Academy. Back then, the 5'5''-tall Rani weighed 120 pounds and didn't have the girly or sultry look.

"I'm not the standard-looking actress in Chinese society today, so I could barely get the part," Wei said. Upon graduation, she slimmed down to 104 pounds after a bout of alcoholism and insomnia. Ironically, her unhealthy weight loss led to her getting the only two parts out of 20 auditions she attended over those years. 

But she doesn't want to become a "stunner" through plastic surgery or intentional weight loss, as many actresses do. "Because that's not me. I am who I am."

Wei thinks body image is a tag particularly attached to women. She grew up breaking away from what she was taught since childhood: a girl is supposed to be virtuous and must manage her body in order to have a happy family. After graduating, she veered away from being an actress to teaching English theater at an international school.

即将30岁的唐雪濛是一家公关公司的客户经理。在公司,她和同事们习惯了以“卡路里”来计算每天的食物;瘦身、吃轻食、节制饮食是一种心照不宣的“企业文化”。



就算在旁人看来,她已经“漂亮到一定程度了”,但她内心对外表的挣扎仍然无法停止——
“每一年,每个月,每个礼拜,每一天,我都会挣扎……为了外貌的挣扎是永无止境的。”


"I live with that struggle every day. When I was a teenager, I was always doubting whether my face was too big, whether my nose was too wide. And now, I'm afraid of getting old," said Tang Xuemeng. Turning 30, she said she fears the wrinkles creeping onto her face and cheeks sagging due to loss of collagen.

Unlike Wei, Tang Xuemeng is still stuck in a high-stress cycle. Upholding strict standards of appearance and grooming has become one of the corporate cultures of the PR conglomerate where she works. "I started paying attention to my body in junior high and struggled to get thinner bit by bit. When I was less than 100 pounds during my college years, I noticed my wide jaws, so I went to get a Botox injection, but then I discovered that my cheeks looked chubby," she recalled.

"Every day, every week, every year, I would always find somewhere on my body I'm not satisfied with," said Tang. To her and her female colleagues, the pursuit of beauty is never-ending. "It's common sense in my company that we have to watch our diet and stay 

23岁的莫妮卡(音译)对自己穿XL尺码的衣服这件事并不在意——“美应该是多元化的。”

尽管如此,她的家人却时时关注着她的身材。她的妈妈曾让她当时的男友关注她的饮食,以免变得“更胖”。因为在妈妈看来,男友的身材要比她好得多。

Monica is a "big" girl who's open and cheerful. She's happy with wearing a size XL or larger. "There should be a diversity of beauty," she said. The 23-year-old was once concerned about her body after gaining weight in the UK, but that quickly flashed by. "I'm created for sweets. I think I'm over-compensating in my free, adult life without my parents around," she said.

Monica recalled that her mother had once told her then-boyfriend to watch her diet because in her eyes she was "fat" while her then-boyfriend was in good shape. "She even cried, leaving me quite surprised." That's one way to parent in many Chinese families – the thinking is that girls should keep fit so that they'll be more popular in society.

24岁的赵洋洋目前在一家互联网公司做运营专员。在找到这份工作之前,外表偏中性化的她,遭遇过各种各样的求职瓶颈:
朋友给她介绍工作,她却发现被带进了传销组织;找人替她找工作,却被说“先减减肥”;后来终于找到一份销售的工作,却仍因“不够女性”的外表而不被接纳和认可……


When it comes to asking the daughter to lose weight, Zhao Yangyang has a mother that's the same as Monica's. Zhao, 24, has taken diet pills from countries such as Japan and South Korea. "They really worked, though they made you thirsty."

She had a harrowing experience in fighting against her looks. "I don't like myself in a dress," she said. Because of her androgynous style, she failed to find a job after numerous attempts, and was then tricked into a pyramid scheme. "Back then, I was so excited because I thought finally someone accepted me as who I am."

She managed to escape the scheme and spent a long time recovering. Then she found a job selling lingerie, even though she was adamant about not wearing a dress and leather shoes that her boss required. "I was dismissed by my colleagues. They'd say, 'How could you sell out a bra with this look?'" But soon after, she became the top salesperson in her company, with the most repeat customers.



03

 Ways of seeing 

2005年,英国文化艺术批评论家约翰·伯格(John Berger)在他的名作《观看之道》(Ways of Seeing)一书中写道——


“男人观看女人,而女人观看被观看的自己。女性从小就被训练用男性的视角来观看女性……因此(女性)将她们自身变成一个物体——更准确的说是视觉之物:一种景观。”

如果说审美是一种社会塑造的产物,那么是否迎合这种审美规则,却是个体的选择。




然妮曾想过改变自己,让自己变成大家更喜欢的样子,让自己更符合外界口中对“漂亮女生”的定义。


但后来她发现,当人们不喜欢她原本的样子时——
“就算我按照他们喜欢的方式去改变(自己),他们还是不喜欢我。”

In a recent hit miniseries produced by Zhao Wei, the popular actress and socialite, women take center stage. "Magic Mirror," the first episode of this female monologue drama called "Hear Her," tells of a young woman who resents her own body image and spends 157 minutes putting on makeup every day to attain her standard of beauty. "Magic mirror, tell me who's the ugliest person in the world. It's me, definitely." The drama begins with this soliloquy from the woman, who's sorting out a proper bag and shoes from piles of fashion stuff to match her delicate makeup. "A flat nose, two thin lips, wide jaws, sparse hair, thick ankles, stumpy legs…"

"Whether we are tall or short, fat or slim, we don't want to be treated as an object," Tang said, looking adamantly at the camera.

Maybe the willingness to talk about body image in public is progress, though tiny, as women try to define their own worth and beauty instead of having others do it for them. As the protagonist in "Magic Mirror" asks near the end of the episode, "Why has beauty, which is supposed to be the most inclusive and diverse, become so narrow?"

在《魔镜》中,齐溪扮演的女主角在卸去精致的妆容后,向自己发出直击灵魂的叩问——


“你到底在取悦谁?”


到这里,短片将对容貌焦虑的探讨带入了更深的层面——


女性对于自我外表的、近乎苛刻的追求,是否也在某种程度上固化了本就单一的审美标准?

图片

没有人说胖女孩就不能是漂亮的,也没有人说皮肤黑的女孩就不能是自信的。

但从什么时候开始,“美”这样一个本该如银河般浩瀚无垠的形容词,渐渐被束缚在方寸之间。

而你我,对此没有质疑。


“ 
最为包容、广阔的美,

变得狭窄、单调,

纵容这种变化的,

不是别人,

就是我。

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